Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Selecting New Plants: How to keep from going crazy at the garden center.

Rare is the season when I don’t find myself considering making changes to my landscape. Sometimes it is out of necessity – Mother Nature or the neighborhood pests have a hand (or teeth!) in it. Other times, I may want to change just a plant or two to give my landscape a fresh look. So, off I go to my neighborhood garden center, looking for something to fit a specific spot. Sound familiar?

But wait! Before you grab your keys, you might want to take some time to consider some key elements. You need to know the correct plant size to fill the space. You also need to know how much sunlight the space receives on a daily basis. You also want to be aware of the existing plant colors – foliage and blossoms – to make sure your new plant will complement the existing landscape.

When deciding what size of plant you need to fill a space, it can be helpful to use objects to help visualize what the landscape will look like after the plant is installed and as it matures. Any object will work, so get creative. Items such as a trash can, cardboard box, or empty pot will all do the trick. Tobias likes to use a mouse, ground squirrel, or fish, but those would be for a very small spot. Once you find an object that has the right size, take those measurements with you to the garden center.

How much sun does the plant need? Light requirements are usually listed as full sun, part sun, part shade, or full shade. Their general guidelines are:
* Full sun: At least 6 hours of direct sunlight.
* Part sun: 3-6 hours of sun.
* Part shade: 3-6 hours of shade. These plants will require shade in the afternoon to protect from the intense late day sun.
* Full shade: Less than 3 hours of direct sunlight with dappled shade the rest of the day. This is Tobias’ favorite. Keep in mind that full shade does not mean zero sun exposure. There aren’t many plants that can survive in complete darkness.

Once you have the information about size and light, start reading plant tags. You’ll find the tags have a wealth of information about the specific plant. Most will not only give you the size and light requirements, but will also provide planting instructions and include a picture of the plant so you’ll have an idea of what to expect once it matures.

A cautionary tale: Some information on plant labels may be slightly misleading because the labels are not made specifically for Nebraska. For example, a rhododendron may be listed as full sun because in certain climates it needs full sun, but in Nebraska it needs afternoon shade to protect it from the intense Midwest summer sun. If you have any questions on sun requirements, a garden center employee should be able to help.

Don’t hesitate to forego a plant once in awhile. While you’re at the garden center, take a look around at the garden art. Sculptures, chimes, metal art and the like can add a great deal to a space. Perhaps a trip to the hard goods yard is in order. There you’ll find boulders of all shapes and sizes, many of which can easily be transformed into a bubbling water feature. If you love the hunt and are patient, you might search for a beautiful old bench at antique stores or estate sales.

There are lots of ways to fill in a landscape bed. We hope you enjoy exploring the options throughout the seasons.

Happy shopping!

Rachael and Tobias

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Growing beautiful roses - no need to get stuck!

Who doesn't like beautiful roses? There are colors and varieties of roses to suit everyone's color pallettes and size requirements. However, like Tobias, roses prefer a nice sunny spot to hang out. The location should be in full sun for at least 5-6 hours for best results. If your planting bed is shaded, a rose garden is probably not in your future. Sadly, you may need to get your rose fix at your local florist's shop.


When pruning Hybrid Teas, prune back to the first set of five leaves, preferably to an outer facing bud. The outer facing bud will encourage outward growth and ensure proper air circulation. Any diseased or dying canes should also be removed.

Tobias suggests a site where the water will drain properly because neither cats nor roses like wet feet! Low lying areas where water collects should be avoided.

Fertilize regularly. A 5-10-5 fertilizer is preferred. Two to three applications should be made during the growing season. Apply fertilizer in the spring, as the buds begin to swell. The second application should be made in June. The third application, weather permitting, should be made in mid-August. If weather continues to be hot and dry through the end of August, skip the third application to avoid new growth that will not have time to harden off before the first freeze.

Mulch! Mulch will help to conserve moisture and keep the roots cool while minimizing weed growth.

Above all, Tobias and I remind you to stop and smell the roses!
Rachael

Friday, May 28, 2010

Pruning an Unruly Lilac

Rachael's been so busy lately that I thought I'd give her a little break this month and tell you a little bit about pruning lilacs. Time is of the essence with these beauties. The health and vigor of a lilac depends on regular maintenance of the shrub. Regular pruning an care encourage a good overall shape and prolific blooms. If your lilac has been neglected for many years, the process of regaining control will take a few seasons to complete, but is certainly do-able.

It is important to prune the lilac as the blooms begin to fade. The next season's buds are set almost immediately after blooming. By pruning as the current season's blooms are fading, you can avoid pruning off next season's flowers.

Essential tools for lilac pruning are loppers and hand pruners. Before making your first cut, make sure all blades are sharp and clean to avoid spreading disease. Remember to always wear your safety glasses when pruning. It is easy to get poked in the eye when examining and pruning shrubs.

Start by removing 1/3 of the oldest, largest canes by pruning them all the way to the ground. You may not need to remove 1/3 of the plant every year. the goal is to have 8-12 stems of various ages, but all stems should be about 1"- 2" in diameter. Remove all pencil-thin, weak stems.

Remove any branches that are rubbing against each other or are rubbing against a fence or structure. rubbing causes open sores on the branch, making the shrub susceptible to insects and disease.

Another step in the pruning process is deadheading. While deadheading spent blossoms can be very helpful for younger shrubs, it is not necessary for older, larger shrubs. Not to mention, it is nearly impossible to remove every spent flower head on a mature lilac!

Time is limited but lilac pruning can still be done this season. If you have any questions on pruning lilacs or would like us to tackle your overgrown lilac for you, give us a call today.

Well, that's it for now. Stay tuned for more DIY posts from CM's!

Tobias and Rachael

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Leaf Miner




Today we welcome our neighbor Leaf Miner to the blog. Good Morning Leaf Miner! Who exactly is Leaf Miner? Where can you find him?


We are so glad you asked. Leaf Miner can be found on Hawthorn trees. Adults emerge from the soil in early May and sting the leaf, laying eggs as they do. The eggs then hatch, and the caterpillars that you see here(look for the backwards "c"), eat between the layers of leaves! You can see the damage they do below. When they are finished, they cut through the leaves, pupate in the soil, and overwinter as moths in the soil. As you have already guessed, they remain there until May when they start the process over.


What can you do? You can treat with acephate now or in the fall with an imidacloprid soil drench.












We will be back soon with some more do it yourself tips!










Thursday, April 29, 2010

DIY: Container Gardening

Nebraska's frost-free date is right around the corner. Do you have May 10 circled on your calendar? Tobias and I can't wait to get started on our container garden.

Container gardening is the perfect solution for people with limited planting space or mobility issues. Container gardens can add a wonderful splash of color to an outdoor living space, make an entryway more inviting and provide fresh herbs for the kitchen.

Are you ready to get started?

Consider the size of the plants in relation to the size of your pot. It is important to leave a little bit of growing room. Most annuals will come with a tag that will have the mature height and width of the plant. This information is very helpful when planning your design. Different heights and textures will add interest and depth to your pots. Tobias prefers the large foliage plants, while I tend to go for the flowers, but a nice combination of both foliage and flowers makes for a design appealing to the eye.

Water and fertilizer are the keys to healthy, continuously blooming containers. When a plant is blooming, it is using an incredible amount of energy and nutrients to produce those flowers. However, when a plant doesn’t get enough moisture it goes into survival mode, which usually means dropping its blooms to conserve energy. Fertilizing your plants will provide them with the nutrients they need to keep flowering. There are many different fertilizers on the market and most people have a favorite. I have had great success with organic fertilizers. I look for organic fertilizers made specifically to increase blooms. It is important to read and follow the directions on the package. I like to find a fertilizer that can be applied weekly. I then alternate fertilizer and root starter once per week. Root starter can be found in the fertilizer section. With this schedule, you are supporting both top and root growth for a healthy, vigorous plant.

Removing spent blossoms (sometimes known as dead-heading) will also help your annuals keep flowering. When a blossom is done flowering, the plant actually uses a considerable amount of energy to get rid of the flower. By removing the spent flowers, the plant can use the energy to grow and to put on new blooms. This is more important for some annuals than for others. Geraniums will benefit from dead-heading more than a plant with small flowers like Lobelia.

Tobias and I hope you enjoy container gardening as much as we do. You can get more information on container gardening AND see a picture of Tobias and one of his pals in the May newsletter, so go to our website http://www.cmscustomlawn.com and check it out. Better yet, if you don’t already receive our newsletter, you can subscribe right from our website's home page.

We’d love to see pictures of your projects. Feel free to send them to us at remonico@cmscustomlawn.com. Until the next time, happy gardening!
Rachael and Tobias (Meow!)

Thursday, April 1, 2010

DIY: Starting Flowers and Vegetables from Seeds

Hello! I'm Rachael and I've recently joined CM's Custom Lawn & Landscape's landscape division. I am responsible for landscape bed maintenance and, with the help of my cat, Tobias, am writing some do-it-yourself features for our newsletter and blog. If you don't receive our monthly newsletter electronically yet, please go to our website and sign up.

Have you ever started plants from seeds? This is not only a fun and rewarding project, but it is also a great learning experience for kids and can help cut the cost of this season’s flower and vegetable gardens. Here are a few tips from Tobias and me for easy, successful seed growing.

Gathering supplies.
The traditional seed tray filled with potting soil will work just fine for growing seeds, but there are a few products on the market that you may want to consider. One option is peat pellets, sold under several different brand names. It is a pellet made of peat moss that measures about 1”x ½” in size. When you add water, they expand to about 4”x2”. Tobias finds this part absolutely fascinating to watch. They are usually sold along with a tray and a lid to keep the moisture in. I like these because they eliminate the need for potting soil, which can be messy when using indoors.
Another handy product is the peat pot. These are small pots, about 2”-3” in size. You fill these small pots with potting soil and sew the seeds the same way you would in a seed tray. When the time comes for transplanting, simply make a few cuts in the side of the pot and place in the ground. The pots will begin to decompose rather quickly once they are in the soil, giving the roots plenty of room to grow. While Tobias prefers digging the plants by paw out of the traditional seed trays, I like the peat pots because I don’t have to worry about disturbing the root system of the young plant during transplanting.
These products will slightly raise the cost of growing plants from seed, but they make the process a little easier. In addition to these products, there are many others available in the garden centers of just about every hardware store in the area.

Dampening the soil.
Seeds should always be sewn in damp soil. I find the easiest way to achieve the correct moisture level is to use a zip top plastic bag. I start with my potting soil in the bag and slowly add water while mixing it until it is fairly damp, but not dripping.

The right location.
If possible, find a warm spot to keep the seed tray. During germination, warm temperatures are more important than the amount of available light. After germination (when the first leaves come above soil level) sunlight is important, but direct sunlight should be avoided.
We hope you enjoy your seed-starting project. If you have any questions about this or other gardening issues, don’t hesitate to call us or send an email to Rachael at remonico@cmscustomlawn.com.


Happy planting!
Rachael and Tobias

Friday, October 30, 2009

Protect your concrete from salt damage

We all know how damaging salt can be to concrete driveways and walks. Protect your concrete against salt damage by hiring CM’s apply a penetrating sealer to your concrete surfaces.
Penetrating sealers can protect your concrete from corrosive winter ice melt products. These products can be applied to a surface temperature as low as 40 degrees. Most of the time, these sealers can be applied for as little as $1.00 per square foot and last for years. If necessary, the degreasing and cleaning of concrete areas can be completed before sealers are applied.
Please call Chuck at 738-1718, ext 671 if you are interested.